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Art Deco Walking Tour

 

A special thanks to Celeste Williams, Adjunct Assistant Professor, University of Houston College of Architecture, and Partner, Williams + Froehlich Architects. Ms. Williams was the recipient of the Rice Design Alliance's 2000 Initiatives for Houston grant, which funded her extensive research into Art Deco and Streamlined Modern buildings in Houston that resulted in this self-guided tour. There are many fine examples of these buildings along the METRO light rail line.

University of Houston Downtown Campus
North Main Street
The University of Houston Downtown’s campus is composed of several smaller annexed structures to the former Merchants and Manufactures Buildings. Originally designed in 1930 by Giesecke & Harris Architects, the building’s classic Art Deco vertical detailing was meant to call out the pinnacle of commerce near Houston’s historic Allen’s Landing. The eleven story mid – rise height of the building allows it to hold its site amidst the larger scale freeway overpasses and bridges that surround it. On the South side, a terrace provides beautiful views of the downtown skyline. A detail of interest is the monel mailbox, part of a chute system that was State of the Art for this time.

City Hall
901 Bagby Street
Houston City Hall was designed by Austrian born architect Joseph Finger in the streamlined modern style, built in 1937 on a great civic plaza site envisioned by Hare and Hare of Kansas City, City Hall was realized following the Great Depression with the assistance of WPA grant. The architecture reflected other great Finger buildings such as the Turnverein Club surmounted by a tower with setbacks. The central entry to City Hall sits directly on the axis of the longitudinally place reflecting pool of Hermann Square. Beautifully incised bas – relief ornamentation accents symmetrical setbacks and the roofline, while being prominently featured directly above the nickel bronze panels and grills of the entrance. The lobby of the building is classic Streamlined Moderne Art Deco with its nickel bronze stair rails, lighting fixtures, and a cove – lit – ceiling featuring the world globe with Houston at its center. The murals in the lobby were created by artist Daniel MacMorris. Additionally the City Council Chamber, the second principal space in the City Hall retains its original appointments.

Mellie Esperson Building
808 Travis Street at Walker Street Entrance
The Mellie Esperson Building of 1941 was designed by father and son architects John and Drew Eberson as an annex to the Eberson European neo – classical Niels Esperson Building of 1927. The Mellie Esperson Building was the last of the three developed, which also included the first Eberson Atmospheric Movie Place, “The Majestic”, now demolished. The nineteen-story building turns its principal Streamlined Moderne façade to Walker Street where its black Minnesota granite base meets the street. Rising clean of ornamentation, the Bedford stone façade has setbacks that form a central tower behind which is a mechanical penthouse. The curved, inset Walker Street entrance features bronze doors flanked by black granite “cheeks”. Inside, marble walls and terrazzo floors complete the elegant lobby.

JPMorgan Chase Building
712 Main Street
A jewel in the crown of Houston’s skyline, the former Gulf Building was commissioned by developer Jesse Jones in 1929 to provide Houston with a New York Art Deco skyscraper worthy of its status as a city of booming oil industry. Architect Alfred C. Finn, with Kenneth Franzheim, achieved this goal through his carefully executed masterpiece of sequential set backs culminating in an illuminated crown screening an observation deck. From its incised wave pattern in stone, which clads its lower levels, to the carefully patterned brick of its remaining floors, the building is exquisitely detailed. Its coffered banking hall with radiant sunburst imagery is a unifying element, which allows the marble walls to form a quiet backdrop to the teller stations and other banking functions. Recently restored, the terrazzo floors also reflect this united approach. A large stained glass window located on the western side of the lobby depicts poignant scenes from Texas History. Not to be missed are the check – writing desks. From its air grills to its doorknobs the Chase Heritage Hall is a Gesamtkunstwerk.

Holy Cross Chapel
905 Main Street
The former Smart Shop of 1937 is one of a series of smaller commercial designs of Alfred C. Finn, including the former Kirby Fashion building directly adjacent. These two buildings, along with the Krupp and Tuffly Building and the later City National Bank Building, show Finn’s dominant presence on Main Street. The Holy Cross Chapel founded by Msgr. Albert J. Beck has had its home at 905 Main since 1982.

1001 McKinney Street Building
1001 McKinney Street at 921 Main Street
Alfred C. Finn’s twenty – four story former City National Bank Building is interesting in its development post World War II, in a style that by this time was almost conservative. Similar to the Millie Esperson Building, it has a narrow side elevation fronting Main Street and a principal façade turned to McKinney, stepping back to highlight a central penthouse tower. In the case of the City National Bank Building, earth colored brick piers form the main vertical elements, framing fenestration with detailed spandrels. The first three stories reflect their former commercial use. Interesting elements are the lintel panels with the Industrious Bee that was a symbol of the City National Bank.

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